Head down any Italian street and you’ll get the intoxicating combination of leather and coffee, mixed with the perfume of Italian men & women roaming the streets or on their way to work. Rome is the Italian city you want if you need to get lost in crowds. This is my version of travelling around Rome.
Start at the Colosseum as it’s the only site on Line B of the Metro. I love that there’s always construction around it. I love the cries of disgruntled travellers, thinking what a shame to have scaffolding during their visit. But it’s Rome, it’s the Colosseo (imagine this being said in an Italian accent). It was completed in 80 AD. Of course it has scaffolding. It even has a newer restored part and I love it. I haven’t been inside in years, after a while the novelty wears away but the outside is still striking.
While you’re next to the Colosseum it’s hard to miss the archway & the Roman forum. I’m leading you to a dead end but if you follow the path down to the exit for the forum you might meet the painter Danis. Unless he’s moved on of course, but if you do meet him make sure you stop and talk. I’ve made a habit of asking all the artists I come across where they learnt their craft & where they’re from. I also bought a painting from Danis and it’s hanging on my wall, a painting of a vico (tiny Italian side-street). I didn’t attempt to barter and he took a whole 20 Euro off because I stopped and talked for some time.
Walk to parliament:
Piazzo Di Venezia
Take this route to walk towards Via del Corso & you’ll see Roman ruins on the way. All you need to experience history in Rome is walk. Stop. Look. Walk some more. There’s something new to see every hundred yards. You’ll know when you’ve reached parliament as the striking white building takes precedence in this square. You can go inside & view a mini art gallery that they hold. It’s best seen from the outside; magnificent with guards keeping an eye and a light flame throughout the day.
Long stretch of Via del Corso
Directly opposite the Parliament building there is a road which looks small from this angle but don’t let that fool you. Via del Corso is a gorgeous street of shops & home to the Doria Pamphilj Gallery which houses a large art collection. The Via del Corso leads to the Villa Borghese and Piazza del Popolo but before you go, I recommend constantly veering off.
Head away to the following:
The Pantheon
This was a temple dedicated to all the gods of pagan Rome. It was first built as a temple to all gods. Considering it’s such an old build the composition of material used to build it is still unknown. The Pantheon is one of the only structures from Ancient Rome of its size that has survived the damage of time quite intact. The most fascinating part of the Pantheon is its giant dome, with its famous hole in the top; the eye of the Pantheon. The dome was the largest in the world for 1300 years and until today it remains the largest unsupported dome in the world. The diameter of the dome is 43.30 meters or 142ft and is in perfect proportion with the Pantheon; the distance from the floor to the top of the dome is exactly equal to its diameter.
If you’re hungry for some delicious pasta head to Pantha Rei on Via Della Minerva, found off the backside of the Pantheon. Far-removed enough to avoid the crazy crowds of the piazza, here you’ll find tasty food without the tourist price. I went for an Arrabiata. Always my favourite.
Afterwards take a walk for some gelato. This can probably be done at several points throughout your day. Rain or shine, my favourite is Giolliti (Via Degli Uffici del Vicario).
- Remember that usually in Italy you need to buy a ticket for your food before selecting it. This makes it easier than trying to balance 10 gelato and paying afterwards.
Piazza Navona
Musicians playing their best & canopies above restaurants ready for any weather, outdoor heating is provided throughout the year. You’ll see the beautiful Fountain of Four Rivers designed by Bernini in 1651, which is made in Baroque design, not as big as the Trevi fountain but the craftmanship is just as remarkable. The four statues of the fountain represent the most important rivers of a few continents. The Nile, Danube, the Ganges and Rio de la Plata.
I wouldn’t recommend eating in Piazza Navona as this is a specific tourist spot and prices are high. It is worth the atmosphere and the spots along the piazza are perfect for soaking in the afternoon violinist, which drowns out the chatter from the crowds.
Trevi Fountain
Next is the Trevi Fountain, a larger piece of artistry just a short walk away. Known as the Eternal City, the best drinking water is rumoured to come from all the fountains in Rome. Don’t necessarily jump into the depths of the Trevi Fountain (I don’t think this is legally allowed) – but on the right hand-side of the fountain there’s another water outlet, go and mess up your make up, there’s no better way to get eternal life…
The Trevi Fountain is the largest Baroque fountain in the city so it gets quite the crowd. Do not underestimate the crowd. You’ll be a part of the crowd. I’ve never woken up early enough to see it without a crowd, but potentially a 6am start could get you peace. Another option I have tried in order to get it to myself is go there in torrential rain or the dead of night in winter.
Spanish Steps
Ingeniously in the Piazza di Spagna you’ll find a short steep incline of steps, these are the famously sat and trod-upon Spanish Steps. These 135 steps represent the link between the Spanish and The Trinita dei Monti church which stands at the top of the steps. In front of the steps you’ll find a great resting point and the interesting sight of another Baroque designed fountain, Fountain of the Ugly Boat. Italian names can at times lack creativity and are created with the most striking brutal honesty.
Sunset Over Piazza di Popolo
Walk up the Spanish Steps and start a slow walk uphill to your left. This will lead you to the lookout over Rome. You’ll see St Peter’s Basilica in the far distance and there’s something beautiful about how the sunset’s orange hue kisses the tops of all the rooftops. Veer off from here and explore the gardens behind. Afterwards return back to the view and descend the steep steps to the piazza. Explore the square in the evenings. During summer you’ll hear music and you may even come across festivals. You’ll certainly see roses and toys being sold. People need to make their money somehow.
If you’re doing this trip starting from Piazza di Popolo then make sure you fly by Ristorante Rosati for breakfast (think chocolate stuffed pastry, the stickiest tarts and rich macarons).
Food
It’s quite hard recommending places to eat in Italy, because surprise, there’s always somewhere good around the corner and there’s somewhere to eat at every corner! My favourite dinner restaurant in Rome was La Fraschetta di Castel Sant’Angelo. It’s small, it’s busy and slightly crowded, full of Italians out with the family for a cheap meal. Although in Italy the meal will never be cheaper than if you made it at home. More than reasonable prices offer firm Roman favourites like Caccio di Pepe, Arrabiata and even artichoke dishes as starters.
On the yellow and orange napkins you have comments left by previous diners. This place is big, funky and quick. I enjoyed the carbonara and I love how Romans use artichoke in loads compared to us Brits.
Other Quick Notes On Rome:
– Make your way back down Via del Corso again to shop. Rome is different at night.
– There are many osteria along all the laneways if you want a soothing glass of wine to sit outside and admire your surroundings (give your feet a rest).
– If you want to treat yourself: BAHR spa have a meticulous nail bar but also hidden away is a restorative spa, putting a mute button on this buzzing city.
– Wear trainers. I know it’s nice to look stylish and get some good shots of yourself and the architecture… but I used to travel Italy in high-heeled boots. Take it from me, wear your walking shoes!
– WiFi connections are available but not necessarily the strongest, so take a break from the online world and download offline maps of the city from Google Maps. This helped me explore Italy without being reachable via the internet.
– That was Rome in one day. On your second day, make sure you take your time. Retrace your steps. Leave the camera in your bag. Go and explore the places that peaked your interest.
– The Vatican – I haven’t forgotten! Take advantage of the queue jump, it’s worth it if you are restricted by time. I waited in the queue for just under 2 hours. Know what you’re getting yourself into. Imagine all the tourists in Rome, inside the Vatican, shoulder by shoulder. That’s what it’s like. There’s no admiring a Raphael in silence & splendour. But you can still admire it because his work is just as captivating, appreciate it & even escape the crowd via audio guide.
Rome took some time to grow on me. I think it took four or five visits but I finally understand the city and I wish I’d come to know and understand it sooner. Enjoy the slow-pace Italian lifestyle but the Roman version. They’re quick, but they’re still slow.
Ciao!
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