A stark contrast to the south, you’ll find churches have been erected on every other street corner. Each with its individuality, clear which one you need to attend. Hardened brickwork in shades of brown and grey. Long spires pointing to the wearisome sky. Northern Ireland is home to many of my friends I met travelling. Each telling you Belfast is where they’re from because that will be the only name you recognise. Three of them are from the small town, others scattered on the outskirts.
Everything is familiar, as an entity of the United Kingdom, yet the little things stand out the most and these differences are evident on either side of the Peace Wall, somewhat a dividing wall. Gaelic/Irish translation for street names and road signs only in a select number of places. The language missing from the airport and making Belfast International Airport seem a world away from Dublin Airport. The little things stood out; I’ve met someone from Derry, that’s what he called it but the radio, cranked up while driving around Belfast, said Derry/Londonderry every time. That encompassing realisation that they’re not two different places but called differently by two religious groups.
The great Northern Irish divide is shameless and hits you in the face once you start listening and looking. Unlike the British political propaganda, theirs is pasted to lampposts every one hundred yards or so. Just like churches, they are decorative points along the streets. Not as beguiling or as sobering as the peace walls which were built temporarily to keep the violence of The Troubles and the Northern Ireland riots contained, but evidently they are still effective and cemented structures of their history and present, making an impression on all visitors.
When you choose to look past their most recent violent past, as one of the only countries in the Western Hemisphere who are still at an ‘in your face’ odds on peace and conformity; you will find the quaint streets, gorgeous striking churches, independent stores and the environmentally-forward thinking of Northern Ireland to be a pull in the right direction.
Their gastronomical offering; splattering of dozens of bars with exceptional cocktails and public funded initiatives for our environment in the Botanical gardens are all reasons to book your flights and stay in town. As I walked around town, mini holdall suitcase being dragged behind me, making its presence known over every rough surface of concrete, I realised I felt safe and comfortable. Inner city locals were friendly, encouraging and informative. I know the point of customer service is to entrap the consumer while making them feel good about spending their money, and Belfast did a bloody good job of that by being welcoming. I am always open to opportunities to try something new; an Irish coffee, the way they make their Bloody Mary (strong and punchy, a slight burn) or traipsing across the entire town from the bus depot to the museum.
Museums are brilliant, yet ultimately tiring and should have a nap room or an espresso machine on every floor. I try at least an hour or two in the museums of places I go to. Or an in-depth Lonely Planet search into that city. Knowing the history & culture of where you’re going is important, it changes your perception and makes you aware of your surroundings.
There are many local pubs and restaurants but of course I forced my friend to try one that’s been recommended by other travel bloggers. Off we went to the Barking Dog, his first time in this restaurant, carafe of red wine and two dishes later. The meal was incredible, our chicken tender and flavoursome, the spices combined perfectly to elevate the taste of the sauce and crunch of vegetables.
Coffee and cocktails at The National Belfast were great. As a bonus it transforms into a night club with a DJ set behind hidden doors, taking you away from the coffee shop vibe. The ceramics and decor were fun and modern. For a night out try the Cathedral quarter. We went to Thirsty Goat and Duke of York but there is an abundance of bars.
Spots of interest not too far from the city:
The hike/walk at Belfast castle:
My adventurous friend Becca took me for an afternoon hike on my last day. I think these days I use the word ‘hike’ for a walk. We basically went for a strenuous uphill walk. The beautiful Belfast castle sits at the edge of a hill. And nearby there are a few trails with different hiking levels leading you in various directions. We took the long trail and I’m sure cheated by cutting it in half without trying (not complaining). The liquid sunshine at its best, canopy of trees slightly shielding us from the raindrops. We reached an enchanting view over the port and Belfast city. Looking over the ships and admiring the bizarrely famous yellow skyline cranes named Samson and Goliath. We allowed ourselves to get soaked through for another long minute as we took in the view. Back down we went through the mud, attempting to remember the way back.
Knowing people in other countries is great because you get a different experience; there’s always something to do in Northern Ireland. There are plenty of hikes and gorgeous views a few hours out. The Giant’s Causeway is now famous for its part in The Game of Thrones.
Another aspect of Belfast I loved is that you don’t have to get too far out to have a decent meal, whether that was me trying soda bread and potato bread at Mike’s house or eating champ with sausages and beans with Ciàran and Becca at Maggie Mays in the Botanic area. I’d never eaten champ in the land that created it and I wasn’t disappointed. I’d only eaten it when Ciàran made it a few years ago; we lived in a house share on a Victorian farm in Australia. That was my first taste of champ. This is my third. Champ is basically mash with spring onions but the taste is far from basic.
Another part of Belfast to acknowledge and appreciate is the creation and building of the Titanic. They are proud of this fact and rightly so. You can get a closer glimpse of the sexy Samson and Goliath.
A weekend break allows you to see this city, its beauty and history. If you’re looking for nature and want it with your city break, hire a car and travel to Giant’s Causeway, Downhill Beach, Dark Hedges or any of the other awe-inspiring spots.
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