Bangkok, formerly known as Krungthep, is a bustling city with food stalls holding precedence along inner streets, lining the road parallel, the heady mix of sweet braised pork belly, grilled meats, and juicy mango and sticky rice carts surround you as you weave your way past local shoppers, travellers, tuk tuks and merchants. And if you look up, once in a while you’ll see tall spires from the roofs of wats (temples), Thailand’s strong buddhist heritage won’t go unnoticed.
Transport: Bangkok’s easy canal boats
The best way to get around Bangkok is to expect some traffic – a little bit of patience will get you far! Tuk tuks are easy to hail or you’ll find plenty parked along quiet and busy streets. A slightly cheaper alternative is using the Grab app (available almost everywhere in Thailand) or the Bolt app (mainly available in the big cities).
Now, if unlike me you’re not a Londoner, Bangkok may feel a little busy and packed. If you find yourself wanting some space from the madness of the roads (organised madness), take a chance on the local canal boats. Bangkok’s passenger canal boat is 14 baht (around 30p) and you can travel along the canal to various piers (it can get smokey from the engine!). If you do it once you’ll be able to manoeuvre the waterway maps like a pro.
On one of my days in Bangkok I wanted to explore the city by foot which is my favourite way to learn about a new place. Wearing a cap and with my water bottle in tow, I conquered the day walking to a few temples. Wat Pho was specifically my favourite Wat in Bangkok because of the many statues and greenery dotted around. After that I came to love the cool frosty air of a Bangkok juice bar to take respite from the mid-afternoon sun before tackling the rest of my walk.
Best of Bangkok Food: This is a non-exhaustive list
Thai cuisine is unbelievable and you’re spoiled for choice with street vendors in Bangkok; if you can see them cooking, then you’re in safe hands.
Pad Thai
Ban Phan Thom is an area near Phra Nakhon (the river) with plenty of small restaurants where you can order and eat on stalls along the street. I ordered my first Pad Thai of the trip at one of these restaurants. I’ve since learnt that Pad Thai is the most popular dish, on every menu, as it is easier to prepare than other dishes and has a low cost regarding the ingredients used but it gets in the punters because of its flavour combination of umami, sour, sweet and salty. And yes, they’re generous with the grounded peanuts.
Mango sticky rice
Thailand’s summer season brings with it a haul of ripened mangoes. Thailand’s mango sticky rice tastes of the special childhood treat you’d be allowed on a Friday because there was no school the next day. The mangoes were at their sweetest in March, melting on my tongue. This dish is in abundance at festivals like the Thai New Year (Songkran) and the Thai Festival of Light (Loy Krathong). During festivals the mango sticky rice dish is an offering from locals to show gratitude and seek blessings.
Stewed Pork
Stewed Pork Noodle Shop, near Somdet Chaophraya – I’ve included this joint because it was in a very local area during my day walking around the city. I ordered the Tom Yum Pork Noodles with stewed pork balls which cost 40 baht (88p). If like me you cannot handle heat, make sure to say ‘moi phett’ (no spice) because I didn’t and my mouth was burning slurping on my lunch. The customers were all nearby Thai workers and they generously gave me pointers on how to eat the noodle soup (with a spoon to scoop the noodles with broth, as well as the chopsticks).
Kao Moo Dang
Translating into red pork with rice, this dish simply consists of barbecued pork (char sui) on a bed of rice with a sesame seeded savoury and sweet gravy that elevates the entire dish. This popular Bangkok street food is easily available at most food stalls and food courts. Try the China town night market, Khao San Road market. I ate at the food stalls across from the Pratunam Market which is a popular market for fashion retail.
The Iconsiam Shopping Centre
Despite leaving my shopping centre hangouts back in my 20s, I gravitated to the impressively tall shopping centre, a focal point on Chao Phraya River. The unbelievable ground level market with bright trinket shops, fruit stalls laden with dragonfruit, mangos, pineapples, watermelons with another nearby stall showcasing the latest catch from the sea, a bed of fresh shelled king prawns on ice, and nearby the sweet dessert stalls like the bubble waffle pop-ups.
Every traveller I met who stumbled across the Iconsiam Shopping Centre is mesmerised by the design, the many floors, each with a different vibe. Treat it like an adventure park and explore all the nooks and crannies. Here you can find fresh produce, sweet treats, local retail outlets and major fashion and luxury brands. Expect the unexpected: A group of musicians were playing a melody on their trumpets and violins outside of a gallery on the 3rd floor. Treat yourself to a drink at Tasana Nakorn Terrace, 6th floor of Iconsiam for well made cocktails AND city views (big recommend and for the quality of the establishment, a cocktail was surprisingly only 150 baht).
Restaurant tip: A sign of a great restaurant is when you have the local Thai people eating there!
Other mentions, off the beaten Bangkok track and on it:
- Canal View Restaurant for cocktails along the riverside. This is a small local establishment in Phra Nakhon
- Vivi, The Coffee Place – Enjoy views of Wat Arun across the Chaophraya river and take a break from walking the city streets
- Chan juice bar and coffee – the best air conditioning
- Wat Pho – beautiful temple with the reclining buddha however my favourite part were the statues!
- The Golden Palace
- Ayyuthaya province and outer city parks
- Khao San Road for going out – usually livens up around 11pm
30-something traveller tips:
2. Take all advice with a pinch of salt. We’re all different, so an amazing experience for one traveller, may not be the same life changing experience for you. Really think about what you enjoy, what your ‘why’ is and make your plans accordingly.
3. Carry a pack of pocket tissues and hand sanitiser with you at all times – the plumbing system isn’t advanced, so we’re talking water hoses. Take note, if you’re at a stop off during a day tour, then usually the developed rest points will have both styles of loo, old school squatting and then the more modern day seating – keep an eye out if you’d rather not test your squatting skills.
4. If plenty locals are eating at a restaurant then it is bound to be good.
5. Accept that it will feel like an entire one solid layer of sweat on your face, throughout the day, resulting in the 5 mins applying makeup as a waste of time.
6. If you go for the 600-800 baht massages, you’re getting unbelievable quality and experience, it beats the 200 baht massages which are given next to somebody else in a busy environment.
The first instalment of the South East Asia Solo Travelling series: https://www.citylivingcoastalloving.com/backpacking-south-east-asia-thirties/
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